“More coffee species from the known 130 species are being explored to find which ones can best adapt to harsh climates. Only liberica is suitable for cultivation in hot and humid low-altitude areas and can be mass-produced,” says Dr Kenny Lee Wee Ting, co-founder of Earthlings Coffee Workshop, a dynamic and dedicated collective that supports local growers, conducts speciality coffee education and operates a cafe in Sarawak’s capital Kuching. For many years, he and his associates have strived to optimise the quality and quantity of liberica that has been grown by the region’s indigenous communities since the mid-1800s. “Sarawak has a rich history of liberica cultivation,” he explains, “and is therefore a destination coffee enthusiasts should not miss.”

So, what does liberica taste like? Naturally, it depends on the processing method and the roast, but Dr Kenny Lee Wee Ting says when processed well, “you can taste notes of jackfruit, mangoes, dried figs, melons and a lot of sweetness.” Liew agrees: “Liberica is special for its sweetness and body. It is full-bodied, very round. When mixed with other varieties of coffee, it can play a good supporting role without overshadowing them. It also fuses well with milk. Unlike a lot of arabica beans that cannot cover the milk taste, liberica will bring out some very special flavours.” From the nostalgic ambiance of the nation’s treasured kopitiam to its speciality industry’s bright future, Malaysia is a coffee connoisseur’s dream.